Another “Work in Progress” report

Greetings everyone!  It is March 5 and the weather outside has been either cold or wet or icy or snowy or all of the above.  Seems like good time to spend working on the game stuff.  I have been squeezing time in to actually get some stuff done, so here goes…

De-basing Mechwarrior Dark Age battle armor

First up is the ongoing project to de-base and re-base a bunch of old Mechwarrior: Dark Age and Age of Destruction battle armor minis.  The tools of the trade for that are shown.  The process involves bringing some of my tools and a cutting board into the kitchen, putting the minis in the freezer and then removing one mini at a time from the freezer and cutting it off the clicky base and off any “decorative” base it is attached to.  These “Ravager Battle Armor” figs are pretty easy.  They have no “decorative” base.

Note that I intend to use all these for 15mm scale gaming.  Some late pictures will show how the sizes compare.

Debasing these figures is more work

The “Kanazuchi Battle Armor” figures are harder to de-base since they are glued to a decorative plastic base which is then glued to the “clicky” base.  It takes a combination of knife and clippers to get them where I want.

Leg damage to the mini is common when doing this

A bunch of “Kanazuchi Battle Armor” figs are shown here.  You can see there is a casualty in the group, where one fig’s leg broke off in the removal process.  It is easy to fix with super glue (cyanoacrylate glue) right before re-basing on a washer.

These battle armors take damage more easily

This batch of “Salamander Battle Armor” figures shows that leg breakage is a common occurance in de-basing them.  They were all easily re-glued with super glue.  Please note that the plastic these MWDA and AoD minis are made from does not glue well with any other glue except super glue.  I think that maybe they are made from polyethylene plastic, which would explain that.

Further note: During the de-basing process plastic bits flew all over my kitchen.  The plastic breaks off easily with the clippers and flies far.  I recommend safety glasses, an open area and a broom.

Finally getting my Hammer's Slammers tanks worked on

Next up – FINALLY I have gotten around to working on my Hammer’s Slammers tanks and combat cars from Old Crow Models.

I want to take a second and talk about the REALLY AMAZINGLY GOOD customer service I received from Old Crow Models.  I ordered a tank platoon and a combat car platoon from them in late November of 2010.  By late January they had not arrived and I contacted them.  They checked things out and immediately sent me out a new order.  I got it 3 days later, from Britain to the USA.  It seems that a bunch of their customer orders went missing with the awful weather experienced in Britain and the USA in that time period.  I was quite pleased with the response and service.

The picture shows a couple of the “Hammer’s SlammersBlower hovertanks I am working on.  The washers glued to the bottom help protect the plastic during gaming and allow for magnetic-based storage (more on that later). The washer under the turret allows me to magnetize the turrets to hold them in place and allow them to rotate.

Note the magnets glued inside the tank

I cut out circular pieces of plastic card (mine came from a plastic “For Sale” sign) and glued them into the hole in the tank body.  The card sits just below the washer glued to the underside of the turret.  On the underside of the plastic circle I glued a pair of small rare-earth magnets.  These are strong enough to hold the turret in place.

The turret stays in place even upside down

Even upside down the turret stays in place.  I am very happy with how that turned out.  It took almost no time to do as well.  I finished the four tanks in about one hour.

A lot of firepower...

All four tanks are shown here, almost done with assembly.  I then mounted the small metal secondary guns called “Tribarrels” because they have three rotary barrels.  The location for the tribarrel is a spot just in front of the turret hatch.  I used a pin vise to drill those spots a little deeper and glued the metal-molded tribarrels in place with “Green Stuff” and super glue.

Old Crow Models Hammer's Slammers Combat Car

Next up I moved to the “Hammer’s Slammers” Combat Cars by Old Crow Models.  These are open topped hover vehicles with moderate armor.  They mount three “Tribarrels”, giving them a decent combined firepower.  If you think of the “Blower” tanks as heavy cavalry then the “Combat Cars” are light cavalry.

The picture shows one combat car that I have mostly assembled and the unassembled parts of another one.  The etched brass top cover is really neat and produces a great effect in the model.  The vehicle includes the “stowage” – the bedrolls, personal equipment, footlockers and such that the crew would travel with.  This is a neat addition and helps to enhance the “gritty” look of the assembled model.

Closeup of partially assembled combat car

A closer view of the partially assembled combat car.  The top and the stowage are not secured yet.

Pieces layed out prior to painting

These are the pieces of the combat car that will get painted separately.  I want to be able to access the inside for detail painting before permanently mounting the upper section.

Size Comparison between Blower and Combat Car - all at 15mm scale

This picture shows the relative sizes of the “Hammer’s Slammers” Blower Tank and Combat Car minis from Old Crow Models.  They look great together and I look forward to painting them up!

15mm Khurasan Miniatures SciFi Infantry in comparison

The reason I was waiting to work on my “Hammer’s Slammers” vehicles was because I had to finish basing and painting my “Khurasan Miniatures” Sci Fi Infantry figs.

Great minis and the price is excellent too.  I am going to buy more and recommend them highly.  The picture shows a couple of the 15mm Sci Fi infantry figures in comparison with the “Slammers” vehicles. They fit right in there!

The "re-based" minis fit in well at 15mm scale

Remember I said earlier that the “Mechwarrior” miniatures were intended for 15mm gaming.  Here are some of the “re-based” battle armor figs in comparison with the Khurasan 15mm Sci-Fi Infantry fig.  Good fit, I think.  Oops, the “Kanazuchi Battle Armor” fig is facing away from the camera.  He must be admiring the hovertank…

Look - no mess!

I mentioned “magnetic storage”.  Jim Roots of “Beast’s Wargaming Log –

showed me how he stores all his minis.  I was very impressed and had to start doing it for myself.  The picture shows some of my 15mm scale infantry secure to a magnetic sheet while being held at a 90 degree angle to gravity.  No mess!

Sheet and roll of magnet material

This is the material I ordered from McMaster-Carr, an online industrial supply company.

The roll is flexible magnetic strip with adhesive back, 2 inches wide and 1/16 inch thick.  I ordered a 20 foot long strip.

McMaster Carr item number: 5759K82  Price: $1.51 per foot

The sheet is a flexible magnetic sheet with adhesive back, 7 inches wide by 10 inches long by .020 inches thick.

McMaster Carr item number: 5775K6   Price: $2.41 each

The magnetic strips are strong enough to hold my hovertanks and combat cars (that have washers superglued to their undersides).  The sheet does well in holding my infantry figs, though I might go with a thicker, stronger sheet next time.  Any plastic storage cases should do fine.

Next "work in progress"

I also lined up my next “work in progress” for when I finish the hovertanks and combat cars.  I purchased some model railroad HO scale unpainted human figures.  About $9 for 72 figs.   They will become civilians, “special” personnel and of course some 15mm scale zombies.  The picture shows them with one of the “Khurasan 15mm Sci Fi Infantry” figures.

Well, I need to get back to my assembling and painting.  One final picture though, showing one of my family hard at work on her “work-in-progress”:

Hard at work...

Yup, Maggie the basset hound hard at work on a nap.

Have fun!


3 Responses to Another “Work in Progress” report

  1. shadowcat says:

    I love the magnetic strip/sheet method of figure storage, the guys at the Game Room down in Washington IL showed me this method years ago, I use it for my Epic 40K and Micro-Armor figures mostly. it works really well

  2. Robert Lafountain says:

    I am interested in the clix bases. Do you still have them? Do you know of anyone de-basing vehicles or mechs? I am interested in all Mechwarrior bases. Will pay for them if necessary. Email me at Thanx.

    • Hmmm, I have discarded all the bases that I removed vehicles and figures from. Had a handy pile there, too. That was many months ago. If it is the bases you really want then you might want to do some careful EBay shopping for really cheap clix figures that you can then de-base. I currently don’t know anyone who is de-basing figs – maybe you could put a question in on some discussion boards like the Ambush Alley Games board?

      Good luck!

      —uh, actually, what are you up to with them? I am just curious…

      Mark G.

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